Alexander McQueen Spring 2017 - Runway Review
October 3, 2016
It all started off all rather homely with snuggled patchwork knits, paneled knit dresses, shawls and Celtic paisley—bold and brash, the Celtic checks Sarah Burton employed at her spring Alexander McQueen show ushered in a cool masculinity.
It’s no surprise, really, given the inspiration: the natural coastal landscapes and crafts of the Shetland Isles. With handwoven pieces of Shetland lace manipulated into motifs of indigenous flora and fauna, the visually bold and graphic garments beautifully layered on the body—heightened by contrasting materials such as leather, cotton and lace in color-contrasting glory.
Held at an exquisite orangery at the Luxembourg garden, in which she had installed a bumpy runway covered in a terrain of overlapping—and symbolic—patterned carpets, the fierceness that is any McQueen collection translates effortless into a raw sensuality that is the legacy of Lee. While romantic, the collection was no pile of sweet cookie dough.
Sturdy knits boasted patchworks of Fair Isle-inspired patterns while dresses were cast in classic cotton voile. Soon came the leather corset bodices and tailored jackets (complete with the detachable peplums) embroidered with shipwreck scenes. The show closed with a pair of embroidered gowns, ravishing to say the least. To quote Elvis, love me tender.