Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2017 - Runway Review

Brunello Cucinelli’s knack for designing coveted sportswear that blurs the lines between masculine and feminine has made him the go-to for a legion of elegant women around the world. His spring collection was a further extension of that mantra, balancing the preppy with the sporty.

The looks, shown against the backdrop of a pastural countryside in his Milan showroom, was a study in contrasts: soft pants, cropped at the ankle or relaxed and oversize, fashioned in men’s wear fabrics with tiny sequins—a Cucinelli signature—in lieu of pinstripes. A python skin bomber jacket, like the many rich leather pieces, was divine.

It was all Italian craft and no pomp and circumstance, as is typical with his collections. Take, for example, red knitted mesh top that had a 3-D effect, boasting exquisite floral embroideries that took 12 hours to be hand-sewn. Beyond that, and in line with the aforementioned sequins, shiny threads added an extra dose of spark to the otherwise neutral-laden palette. There were, however, doses of poppy red, straw yellow and azure in the collection—shown on voluminous knits with vertical maxi stripes, reminiscent of sports club jerseys, and enriched with crystal embroideries.