Haider Ackermann Spring 2017 - Runway Review
October 1, 2016
“Paradise birds on acid,” Haider Ackermann declared. Unique in mind and execution, the zen designer relies of his showmanship skills to conjure an eager anticipation each season. For spring, to the pace of wind machines and a penetrating bass throb, he delivered.
The models may have walked in slow formation—all the better to admire the sumptuous craft of his yards of silk transformed into long, fluted skirts and X-back gowns with plunging décolleté. Without a doubt one of Ackermann’s best collections to date, tiny leather bomber jackets opened the show, followed in succession by beautiful dégradés, silky, white pantsuits and loose kimonos in dusty hues.
In a nod to his new hat as artistic director of Berluti, Ackermann incorporated sweatshirts and T-shirts with such logos as “Be Your Own Hero.” There was a little bit for everyone: tough and sexy leather, chic wool tuxedo pants, brocade bustiers and lamé blouses.