JW Anderson Spring 2017 - Runway Review
September 17, 2016
Jonathan Anderson’s love of experimentation knows no bounds—but his classically-trained eye helps keep what he presents on the runway both approachable yet fashion-forward. For spring, with his guests seated along narrow benches literally on the runway, the designer sent out his models in garments that were decidedly feminine yet grounded.
Tudor references informed much of the collection by way of shape and texture. Looped sleeves fitting for Henry VIII jackets, quilted-knee jeans, silk pleated blouse-bomber jackets, long knitted dresses were among the magpie creations that Anderson, who also wears the hat of creative director at Loewe, showcased for spring, which looked cool and desirable. The fluted skirt shapes were lovely and swished with every step. And while asymmetric, gathered skirts that mimicked patchwork from military utility garments were one example of his experimenting, another silhouette—an elongated bubble skirt—featured the layering on of a series of white Irish linen tablecloths.
Sunset colors dominated the palette, volcanic like in dégradé or painterly blotches across the meaty fabrics.