Lanvin Fall 2017 - Runway Review
March 2, 2017
There’s certainly been a pronounced change in tone at Lanvin since Bouchra Jarrar took over the creative reins from Alber Elbaz last year.
Slim-cut jackets, menswear python chain boots, and — gasp — pant suits have all been injected into the house's nostalgic DNA of uber-feminine, diaphanous and glitzy gowns. All the while, Jarrar has added a down-to-earth vibe to the ready-to-wear designs that has lessened the dreamy romanticism associated with the Elbaz years. Take, for example, a chic slouchy pair of white plans worn with a blazer striped with a flash of Lurex modeled on Joan Smalls.
But the sense luxury and sophistication has not been completely lost. At Wednesday’s show, that equated to an emphasis on frothy neck detailing and Victorian silhouettes.
A coat in bold chevron motif fur contrasted severely with a pale pink mirror satin slip dress while a long striped tweed coat jarred with the soft sheen of a slip dress in ivory mirror satin. Then there was the navy jumpsuit with asymmetric collar worn with a soft, striped cardigan. Their intentional — but stark — textural polarity might not be a hit for everyone. But these understated pieces are worth a serious look.