Marchesa Spring 2018 - Runway Review
September 14, 2017
As they continue their Far East fairy tale sojourn first began for fall, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig took cues from Aimee Crocker's travels to Japan for their Marchesa collection. Described as an eccentric explorer who disposed of everything to assimilate into a new life of Buddhism, pearls, cherry blossoms and "collected" lovers, Crocker even adopted snakes, often wearing one around her neck at parties like living jewelry.
If that all sounds quite familiar, well, perhaps that's because Marchesa Luisa Casati was herself a snake-wearing muse --but no reptilian embellishments here. Instead, the designers infused luxe, and convenient, built-in "jewelry" featuring strands of pearls, crystals and organza corsages that outlined the scooped neckline of a black gown or piled on top of a sheer tulle bodice. Together, they mimicked the effect of layering a tangle of pearl necklaces over bare skin.
As for the gowns, the fluffy tulle creations came beautifully hand-dyed with organza cherry blossoms and wisteria vines, accented with petals woven into the models' hair. While some of the dresses were cut with flattering, kimono-like sleeves and others, cinched with obi-esque sashes, a real standout were the slinky fur-trim dresses that could easily have doubled as ultra-luxe Japanese pajamas.