Rag & Bone Spring 2017 - Runway Review

For Marcus Wainwright, Spring 2017 marks not just the arrival of another season or collection. The new era at Rag & Bone starts with Wainwright as sole creative director—at a time when the Brit-centric American label is on a rapidly upward trajectory.

The collection was all about classic American prep, but tweaked just enough to be fresh, modern and unique. The pieces worked for all seasons, really, a thoughtful touch for a global brand whose reach in spring—or fall—is drastically different from continent to continent. Wainwright’s girls remain effervescently sporty, wearing oversize, pinstriped shirt dresses (one huge trend) and oversized V-neck collegiate sweaters with New England preppy corduroys and chinos.

This collection harked on the brand’s iconic staples—the motocross jacket, vintage-inspired romance, a nod to England—but always designed with an athletic bent. That meant slouchy varsity jackets and baggy jeans, nylon anoraks, sweats even…all of which featured in a mixture of graphic palette and micro-floral print.

In the men's wear realm, there wasn’t much deviation from what the brand has traditionally done—and done quite well. Utility and athletic references abound, injected with pops of color and ongoing use of British tailoring fabrics. The Cambridge rowing stripes subtly shown on jackets and pants were a nice distinguishing element—their focus on simple yet authentic garments.