Saint Laurent Fall 2019 - Runway Review
February 27, 2019
All the icons were there: '80s power-shoulders, micro shorts, miniskirts, trilby hats and dark shades a la Betty Catroux. But this was no run-of-the-mill Saint Laurent show. Rather, Anthony Vaccarello sent a whiff of Opium, couturier Yves Saint Laurent's iconic 1977 perfume, through the air as he showcased a sexy and sultry Saint Laurent collection.
The show featured major shoulder moments: a YSL archive peaked-shoulder tuxedo jacket was beautiful, precision tailored to set the season's graphic tone. As the models walked through the dark and hazy venue in their retro ensembles, Vaccarello's penchant for bare skin was on full display. There was plenty of sexy and scintillating moments "exposed" in the outfits -- be it a black silk gown with scooped bust or beaded evening jacket worn with micro shorts.
Further inspired by Opium were the Asian-inspired pieces modernized from the archive: many of these pieces shimmered, including exquisite jackets boasting red and gold embroideries. Vaccarello transitioned his shown into a Pop-era world for the finale of the show. Displayed against a wall of glass, in black light, they weren't easy to see -- but their party-friendly silhouettes, lit up in neon, were unmistakable.